stabilization settings in 10.1

Hi. Anyone have any advice on the stabilization settings in 10.1? Best practice? Thanks

There is no "Best Practice".

It always depends on the clips.
One good advice is to keep the parts to be stabilized short.

I personally prefer Lock & Load - its not that expensive and you have the option to have a ROI where the stabilization is based on. There are also on screen displays which show the current scale of a frame and this save a lot of time when you have to merge normal and stabilized parts seamlessly.

-Andreas

Andreas - I agree about keeping the segment that needs stabilization as short as possible. Thanks for the resource Lock & Load - had not heard of that.

The issue or challenge when using any type of stabilization is that in order to stabilize a shot, it must be scaled up to the degree that it can be moved to compensate for any movement deemed unstable, while at the same time not showing edges of the frame of the shot. Mixing segments of a shot that are stabilized with segments of the same shot that aren't stabilized is difficult because the scaling and position is hard to match.

To that end, this possibly annoying advice; try to make sure you are as stable as possible in the way that you shoot during acquisition. I know that's easy to say and after the fact, but as you move forward, consider tripod shots, slow and even pans, or even a glidecam or some type of slider or even a short piece of track to roll on. One other aspect of shooting that helps to reduce jello or shake is to not set your shutter speed too high. I mean, using a ND filter on glass when shooting on a camera that doesn't feature neutral density filters, that way there is more of a frame blending look rather than a stutter from frame to frame as the camera moves or pans.

[dude at keystone]The issue or challenge when using any type of stabilization is that in order to stabilize a shot, it must be scaled up to the degree that it can be moved to compensate for any movement deemed unstable, while at the same time not showing edges of the frame of the shot. Mixing segments of a shot that are stabilized with segments of the same shot that aren't stabilized is difficult because the scaling and position is hard to match.

Thats what I meant when talking about Lock & Load. It makes it easier to match the parts cause of the OSD. It's not the perfect plugin, but with some "view" of whats happening in the clip it will give you fast and good results.
See here:
www.dropbox.com/s/2unyz3mgsmw3kcr/Side%20By%20Side%20JPEG.mov
(the full download is huge)

[dude at keystone]To that end, this possibly annoying advice; try to make sure you are as stable as possible in the way that you shoot during acquisition. I know that's easy to say and after the fact, but as you move forward, consider tripod shots, slow and even pans, or even a glidecam or some type of slider or even a short piece of track to roll on. One other aspect of shooting that helps to reduce jello or shake is to not set your shutter speed too high. I mean, using a ND filter on glass when shooting on a camera that doesn't feature neutral density filters, that way there is more of a frame blending look rather than a stutter from frame to frame as the camera moves or pans.

I agree to all. A ND filter with rolling shutter like you get with cams like a GoPro can be a huge help upfront.

-Andreas