Some photography questions

The minimum focus distance on my 50mm 1.4 is 45cm.
The minimum focus distance on Sigma 35mm 1.4 is 30cm.

To find out wether I can get closer to an object or not, can I simply say that I can get the same close up shot with both lenses since 50-35 is 15, and 45cm-15cm is 30cm?

I´m looking for a lens I can use both shooting videos and have better macro then 50mm. I´m just trying to understand the specifications.

How can I shoot into the sun, like these pictures?
www.flickr.com/photos/96533652@N08/8838927955/
www.flickr.com/photos/96533652@N08/8838927981/

On my 50mm 1.4 lens, there are some numbers on the focus display. It´s the range in both metric and feet. Just below(towards the camera body) there is a line in the midle of the display. On the upper right side of the line there is a red dot. And on each side of the line it is the number 22. What´s the line, red dot and number 22 for?

For your focus question check dofmaster.com. Shooting into the sun, dial down your exposure.

The line is the current focus distance. The red dot is the focus offset for shooting infrared film. You can ignore it. The lines with the 22 show the approximate depth of field at f/22. If you were at f/22 the range of distances that will be in focus are those listed between the two marks. With lots of experience you'll be able to guestimate the DOF for other f-stops.

When shooting into the sun it is usually best to meter on the sky to one side of the sun. The sun will be blown out, but the rest of the image will be OK. When metering off of the blue sky you want to use about 1 stop of exposure compensation. The actual amount varies with camera and lens combinations. Until you get enough experience to know take some test stills and examine the histogram.

marchyman wrote: The line is the current focus distance. The red dot is the focus offset for shooting infrared film. You can ignore it. The lines with the 22 show the approximate depth of field at f/22. If you were at f/22 the range of distances that will be in focus are those listed between the two marks. With lots of experience you'll be able to guestimate the DOF for other f-stops.

When shooting into the sun it is usually best to meter on the sky to one side of the sun. The sun will be blown out, but the rest of the image will be OK. When metering off of the blue sky you want to use about 1 stop of exposure compensation. The actual amount varies with camera and lens combinations. Until you get enough experience to know take some test stills and examine the histogram.

Thank you very much for your answer!

I tried to shoot into the sun today with a red boathouse in the foreground. The sun was a bit to the the right of the sun.
I focused at the house, moved the camera so I had both the house and the sun in my view. Took the picture. Got a blown out sun, like in the picture, but the house was all dark. I tried different settings, but I couldn´t get it to work.
What am I doing wrong?

Was the red boathouse in the sun or in the shade. If in the shade the dynamic range of the scene was likely too much for your camera (or any camera). When that happens you have to choose which part of the frame you want to be properly exposed. Spot metering helps in that situation.

I assume you are using a "flat" picture style. digital-cameras.wonderhowto.com/how-to/i...on-5d-and-7d-342912/

Yep, the boathouse was in the shade.
I´m using flat picture style, or standard.

So, by experimenting with the dynamic range I can get the boathouse red and clear and also have the sun blown out, like the picture I have linked to?

Have not yet learned about spot metering, so I need to look that up.