5D MK3 and Magic Lantern and mic?

Is Magic Lantern something I download from the net, or does it come with the camera?
And how does it really work. Why do I need it?
Yes, I´m asking google, and I´m reading. But can you give me some info why I need it?

I also want a good mic, so I don´t have to edit so much in post. Any good one, and max $200!

Magic Lantern is a 3rd party open-source firmware update/hack which improves certain characteristics which pertain to obtaining a "cine" look with the Canon camera. As your question alludes to, this software also upgrades the camera's audio recording functions.

Last time I checked it was offered free online. (but not by Canon)

TrixTrax9000 wrote: Magic Lantern is a 3rd party open-source firmware update/hack which improves certain characteristics which pertain to obtaining a "cine" look with the Canon camera. As your question alludes to, this software also upgrades the camera's audio recording functions.

Last time I checked it was offered free online. (but not by Canon)

Is it safe to download, and install on my Canon?

I use it on my Canon T3i.

It is handy in some ways. Like it gives you control over some audio levels - but I always use an external audio recorder so I don't use this feature.

It gives you focus peaking (overlays lines on the screen when an object is in focus). I don't think it worked that well for me so I tend to just use my eyes.

It gives you zebra stripes for overexposure (handy in some circumstances), but again I usually just eyeball it.

There are many other useful features like adding time-lapse capability to your camera.

However, it sometimes causes my camera to act weird. Sometimes after I switch the camera off a red light blinks until the battery drains.

Some users have reported that their camera has been 'bricked' by the firmware.

Installing it on my T3i was a long drawn out and complicated process. I wont be installing it on my 5Dmk3 as I would not be able to absorb the cost if that camera was bricked (whereas I was willing to take the risk with the cheaper T3i).

Incidentally; in reply to one of your original questions - no, you don't need it.

I used my T3i for over a year before I installed ML. Better to get completely comfortable with your camera as it is first.

Installing ML introduces a whole number of extra menus and complicated functions (most of which you will never use). If there is a specific function you need, then think about it. But don't just install it because 'its available'.

I have a Rode Video Mic that I sometimes put on top of the camera. I won it in a competition (but otherwise I don't think i would have one).

Its good for getting reference audio, but I wouldn't conduct an interview with it. For ambient audio of your location its ok.

DSLR's make nice looking images, but they wont make nice sounding audio. Its a limitation of the tool, and no amount of accessorizing will change this.

Depends on the camera. A Juicedlink on my 7D or a friends 5D MkII actually gets us great sound quality, and no audio sync in post.

Well, yeah, a Juicedlink or Beachtek will give you better preamps, and overcome some of the cameras audio shortcomings. You really are adding something new to the camera though, and at some point in the chain you will have a small 35mm connection.

But the price of one of these, plus the means to rig it together, can add up to the cost of an external audio recorder.

Either way, the camera alone is not up to the task.

No built in mic is...

What kind of mic would you recommend for both interview and/or movie and/or theater/play?

No mic will do all of those jobs properly.

Like Ben mentioned; you can get a JuicedLink to get manual control and proper preamps for your audio; but they cost around $300 to $400 (I think), and you still need to mount it, and buy the microphone (and a cable). So your budget is already blown.

You can buy a Rode Video Mic, which sits on top of your camera, and you will have limited control over your levels. That will work for ambient noise, and reference audio (for post synch audio).

For interviews you want to get the mic as close to the person as possible. Either a lapel mic, or a mic on a boom. For professional results that is.

simonpwood wrote: but they cost around $300 to $400... your budget is already blown.

For interviews you want to get the mic as close to the person as possible. Either a lapel mic, or a mic on a boom. For professional results that is.

JuicedLink mounts to the bottom of the camera, and gives you a tripod mount under that, super easy.

As for price, you're going to spend that much for any reasonable solution. But the Juiced link will save you from doing post-sync.

Professional level mics? Hand-held a Sennheiser e865 or e835. Boom, Sennheiser MKH 416, or an Audio-Technic AT835b if you're on a budget. Be sure you get the full mount/blimp/deadcat rig with a shotgun mic. Wireless lav, Audio-Technia ATW-T1801, with the matching dual channel receiver (compact size) if you use two of them.

All true.

Though personally I prefer to have an external recorder (usually I have an audio guy manage it) - and I find audio synch not to be an issue in FCPX. The reason being that sometimes I hire differed cameras (not a DSLR), and an external audio recorder works with any set up, whereas a DSLR specific preamp limits you somewhat.

But horses for courses, as they say.

But for $200 your choices are very limited. Basically, a Rode Video Mic is about the best you'll get, and it will not perform all the functions you want.

If that were my situation, I'd probably buy a little digital audio recorder external digital audio recorder off eBay for 75 bucks, drop it in my subject's pocket with a nice little Sure lav mic plugged in for another 70 or so. (Or you could go Zoom )

Many of these items come with a full 1 year warranty & free shipping.

Just do an eBay search for "Digital Audio Recorder" after you find what you need, search for "Lav Mic."

Over the years I've bought plenty off eBay, the buyer protection is excellent & the savings incomparable. I bought my Canon T3i this way, & it came absolutely brand new looking in every detail, with a full 1 year warranty at over 300 dollars cheaper than a store.

Anyway, back to your sound; I'd much prefer a mic on the guy for an interview, that recording plus your basic camera mic can be mixed & tweaked for a great professional sound.

In case you have an iphone there is also this interesting option:

www.rodemic.com/mics/lavalier

simonpwood wrote: In case you have an iphone there is also this interesting option:

www.rodemic.com/mics/lavalier

THAT is a great product!

My bad; I meant this one (the Smart Lav):

www.rodemic.com/mics/smartlav

Also this one for iPhones with the old connection (they must have been gutted when the iPhone 5 came out with the new connection):

www.rodemic.com/mics/ixy

Don´t have iPhone. Stuck with HTC.

I just want a mic that wont give me so much noise.
Is it the auto gain control that increase the volume, and creates background noise?

An on board camera microphone will pretty much pick up everything that you hear in the room; thats what it is designed for. Its built to pick up ambient noise.

A more directional shotgun microphone (like the Rode Video Microphone) gives you a more focussed pick-up (generally noises that the microphone is directly pointed at will be louder than noises to the side and behind). But you will still pretty much hear everything in the room; so again mics mounted on the camera are mainly used for ambience). If someone is standing directly in front of the camera, and quite close, then it can be used for interviews (some ENG style interviews can be achieved this way), but obviously you are limiting yourself in terms of camera placement and a 'talking head' style format of shooting.

To get proper interviews you will need a microphone on a boom, or a lapel microphone. This enables the camera to be moved independently of the microphone, allowing more freedom in terms of composition and style.

You can increase the microphones sensitivity by increasing the levels; everything becomes louder. However, as well as the person talking to the camera getting louder, everything else in the room gets louder too. So you are raising your noise-floor, which is bad if you are in a public place for instance, because you will hear everything in the background.

When the microphone is placed close to the speakers mouth you actually lower your sensitivity, and thus the noise-floor of all the background noises are lowered also - thats why you get clean distinct audio with microphones on a boom or lapel.